Many ages ago a volcanic eruption deposited thousands of feet of ash and pumice across what would become south-eastern Arizona.  Eventually, after much erosion by rain and wind and a decree by President Calvin Coolidge, we ended up with Chiricahua National Monument.

The Chiricahua area is a captivating, almost-otherworldly wilderness.  Looking at the rock formations and steep valleys, you can easily understand how the area was the perfect base of operations for the Chiricahua Apache in the 1800s.  And in modern times, the remote location and rugged landscape has kept most development at bay.

For nature lovers, hikers, photographers and bird watchers, the monument is about as good as it gets.  In fact, I was so impressed that I decided to dedicate a full length post to Chiricahua.  See my previous post on Southern New Mexico / Arizona here. 

What to Do There

As the official park brochure states, there are 17 miles of hiking trails to explore.  But this doesn't mean you have to hike 17 miles to see everything in the park.  You can get a good feel for the area by visiting Massai Point and Massai Nature Trail.  Massai Point was developed specifically as an overlook for the rugged national monument.  The Massai Nature Trail is an easy half-mile loop around the point.  Along the trail you will enjoy vistas to the west of Echo Park and to the south of Hailstone Valley and the Chiricahua Mountains. 

Echo Park and Hailstone Valley are covered with thousands of rock spires, chimneys and balanced rocks.  If you want to get up close to the rock formations, Echo Park is the place to go.  An approximately three-mile hike will take you down through the Echo Park area and back up Hailstone Valley.  Constructed in the 1930s during the days of FDR and the New Deal, the trail is well-built, with plenty of steps and switchbacks on the steeper portions.  The trail is rocky in places but is very passable for those in moderate shape.  For visitors to the monument, this hike is a must.  The best route is to head down Echo Canyon Trail and then return via Hailstone Trail and Ed Riggs Trail.

(Heart of the Rocks overlook)

For dedicated hikers and photographers that want to see more of the monument, pick up a map at the visitor center and head for Heart of the Rocks.  The Heart of the Rocks is a small valley ringed by towering spires and hoodoos.  A one-mile trail loops up through the spires and around the sides of the valley.  Be prepared for steep rock steps and narrow spaces.  There are several viewpoints along the trail, and the vistas are well worth the walk.  The best way to get to Heart of the Rocks is by way of the Echo Canyon parking lot.  Head south on the Ed Riggs Trail until you get to the junction of Hailstone Trail and Mushroom Rock Trail.  Take Mushroom Rock Trail to Big Balanced Rock Trail.  Via this route, the start of Heart of the Rocks loop trail is just over three miles.  Return the same way, or head down Sarah Deming Trail to the visitor center/campground.

A spectacular panorama of the park can be had from Inspiration Point.  If you've hiked to Heart of the Rocks, you can stop at Inspiration Point on the way back.  The point is a quick half mile detour off Big Balanced Rock Trail.  Best viewing times are sunset and sunrise. 

(Bonita Canyon sunset)

Another option is to take the Hiker's Shuttle.  The shuttle departs daily from the the visitor center at 8:30 AM and will drop you off at either Echo Canyon or Massai Point.  From either trailhead, returning to the campground or visitor center is a downhill hike that will give you a look at some of the must-see park areas.  The shuttle is a free service, but you are required to register at the visitor center the day before.

Where to Stay

Chiricahua National Monument is host to a 25-site campground.  The campground is inside the park, in Bonita Canyon, and accepts trailers up to 26ft and RVs up to 29ft.  Tents are always welcome.  They do not accept any reservations for the camp sites, but if the campground is full when you arrive (which it was when we got there), there is overflow, single-night camping in the several parking lots.  You can also park just outside the monument boundary on Route 186.

For most visitors, two full days should be enough to see the park.  You can spend the first day setting up camp, checking out the visitor center and driving up to Massai Point.  The next morning, get up early and trek through Echo Park.  If you have time and energy left over, you can visit the highly-recommended Heart of the Rocks area.  For bird watching and wildlife, Bonita Creek Trail and Silver Spur Meadow Trail should offer the best experience.

(view towards Dos Cabezas Mountains)

How to Get There

The nearest major metropolitan area is Tucson, Arizona.  The Chiricahua National Monument is located southeast of Wilcox, off Interstate 10 and Route 186.  If you are coming from the east, from New Mexico, you can take a shortcut over Apache Pass.  Check your maps for the town of Bowie and Apache Pass Road.  The road is dirt but seemed well-maintained when we passed that way.  This route will cut off a little distance and will give you scenic views of the Dos Cabezas Mountains and surrounding Cochise County.

Photo Gallery

For more photos and views follow this link - Chiricahua National Monument photo gallery

(originally posted 4/19/2010, updated 4/24/2011)